I'm back!

This is something that I make on a custom basis. Three-stringer San Diego influence with a deep double concave bottom and double foiled Gephart fins. Hope you like it.

Malibu chip

I know this picture is really bad, but the board is already in Japan. This is a tribute to one of my hero's, Matt Kivlin, who influenced modern surfboards as much as any one else. I got a chance to speak to him in Hawaii at Randy Rarick's auction. What a treat. Actually the whole weekend was amazing hanging out with Bing, "the coolest legend of all," and so many others...the list is far to long.

Well, back to the topic. The thinking behind this board is that you can ride a lot smaller board that turns well. The advantage you have is a longer rail line and wider tail that give the board tons more glide. My thinking behind most designs is based on what advantages you'll gain in various conditions.

I see trends come and go and not all of them are functional. If I don't see an advantage to a trend, then it's not really advancing surfing or board design. I love to look at the past and find out what they were thinking and the theory behind their board design to find out what was valid and functional. Some just need a little modern tweaking. The magic board will be an ever evolving process that keeps my job exciting.

Here are some random shots around the factory. It's all about detail from the tail rocker shot
to tones of color.

The swallow tail shot is one that has a story for me. The process of creating a functional and eye pleasing out line is constantly evolving. I have changed this tail dozens of times. I never take templates or measure other board I just keep tweaking the width, wing, and the swallows curve and depth until it looks right. Most important is how the curve flows from tip of the swallow up to the nose.

Wings have a function, but are tricky things. Their function is to reduce width rapidly but where do you put them? Some shapers place them at the base of the fin's placement like I prefer. Others want the out line to break further forward, it just depends. There is no right or wrong way when it comes to wings. End of wing rant.

Mini Simmon

I've been inspired and in awe since I first saw these boards. They deviated so far for the norm of any era. Not until now have we as a surf community attempted to understand and apply his concepts to a practical modern surf craft.

I have always loved to experiment and challenge my shaping skill and this board does that. The first one I shaped was a balsa 8'0'' twin keel for Sean Mattison about three years ago.

This board is 5'3" with a spoon nose, slight displacement forward, and a singe concave out the tail. I really tried to keep to the original concept. The only difference is the single foiled fins with a more modern cant . I foiled these fins myself out of red wood to give a More unique look.

I thought that this is a great board to start my blog. It is the essence of the the modern production board that every brand was producing from "58" though "64".

It's root's originate from the Velzy Jacobs era. With the focus on wide point back and a large "D" fin to keep board high in the water and still have the ability to turn.

As a surf community we are seeing the wisdom of that age with the design coming back with a vengeance. Ask yourself, do you need a big ass nose? I think not. With the modern tweaking the boards can preform better than ever. I love the variety of bottom contours , rails to concave, and fin templates that I have experimented with while keeping the outline pure.

You will see many a piglet on this blog to come. One more interesting note the red tint was not being done until around "65" all color was done after the board was sanded.